Eme's Compendium

This is a work in progress.  I am working through my research on here.  This is just my start and there is more before this research complete and I am able to make the garment.

Madonna, c. late 13th Century, Cathedral of St. Peter at Schleswig, Schleswig, Germany

This sculpture of the Madonna is wearing a surcotte with pleating under the arm holes.  This pleating is more than likely pleated underarm gores.

   

Anna, c. 1270, St. Nikolai Church , Straslund, Germany  

This sculpture of St. Anna is wearing a surcotte with pleating under the arm holes.  This pleating is more than likely pleated underarm gores.

Wise Virgin, c. 1245, Magdeburg Cathedral, Magdeburg, Germany

This is one of the sculptures of the Wise Virgins, she is wearing a cotte with pleated underarm gores. 

 Alb, c. 13th Century, Southern Germany

This is an extant alb from the that has pleated underarm gores.  The hem at the bottom of the alb is rather wide.  Hems did not normally waste extra fabric, this extra fabric may also be acting as a “stay” that the pleats were sewn to to hold their shape.

Most Holy Virgin’s Dress, by I. Marc Carlson, c. 11-12th Century

This cotte as shown by I. Marc Carlson at his website (a link to the page on his website is above) shows pleating being used on the front back and center panels of this dress.  is an extant alb from the that has pleated underarm gores.  Though this garment is from an earlier period, it helps demonstrate the use of smocking and/or pleating in garments through-out time. 

 

 Alb, c. 14th Century, Southern Germany

This is an extant alb from the 14th century.  It has pleated gores that may be smocked and has embroidery over the top portion of the smocking.  This alb is from a later century, but it does help demonstrate the consist use of smocking and/or pleating by the Germans in the construction of their clothing.