Eme's Compendium

I learned from my mistakes and I still have a few to iron out, but on my fourth attempt I finally have a Housebook dress.  I am so happy.  next time I will try another variation of it.  I debutted it at The Tournament of the Golden Rose.  I was the herald for Duchess Kyneburh's team, my first time ever hearalding.  So my promise to her was that I may not be be a great herald but I will bring the German : )

The Bohemian Bathhouse Babes... i.e. self-supporting hemds found in from the late 14th century/early 15th century:

Bible of Wenceslaus IV

Muckley 1386 Women'sClothing

These pictures bring a question to mind, could women (more than likely higher classes such as merchant's wives to royalty) worn two hemds... one smaller self-supporting one use to support their bust and to protect their more decorative hemd from body oils?

Decorated hemds:

Notice that here, in a picture attributed to the Master of the Housebook, is a woman in an obviously loose hemd, that has cleavage showing:

Also a picture attributed to SChilling, c. late 15th Century - with a woman wearing what appears to be a self-supporting/sleeveless hemd:

The German countries were big on decorative hemds.. so why would they want them ruined or stained by body oils?  The also wore many v-necks in the 15th century that don't appear to offer a whole bunch of support.  They offer some support, but not for the amount of cleavage that is seen seen in some illustrations:

I am thinking that the supportive hemd helped out with this.  It does make sense to me. 

:

Seriously... does this look like a fulled wool or velvet used in these gowns?  I am having a hard time telling and it looks like it could be either.  A lightly fulled wool seems plausible... doing more research this weekend in regards to fabrics used in Germany during the late 15th century.  I am not even certain if I could find silk velvet like they were known to use in period (woven silk with either linen or wool).... and what would be an appropriate replacement for cost and availability reason... cotton velveteen?

http://www.gluckliche-eme.com/perlensticken.htm

I am in debate about where the belt is worn on this kleid.  Looking at the artist's other pictures (many clearly show a seam or the belt being worn at the waist) - this seems higher.  Like the area approx. 3-4 fingers below the breast... the seems to be about the end of the rib cage (not below it, but on it/at it) 

Any opinions?

(Pictures at the link... trying to move everything over from LJ related to my research)

So maybe it is the paralegal in me, but I really want more sources for my apron.  There are other pieces people like Mistress Karen on her site, but if I can't find the non-personal site that lists some much needed information (date, where it is housed, ect...) I don't use it.  Silly, I know... but I like having a proper cite with anything I use.  Again, that may be the paralegal in me.

So how many sources are enough?  This is where I am at with the sources for the apron right now, but I am working to get several more before I fee totally comfortable.  I have four sources that are c. 1460-1485 and four sources that are within the time period of the Tempore Atlantia.  The sources within the time period are evenly split between the apron being used during childbirth and in settings (like cooking, tending to the sick, working in the fields, ect...) outside of birthing situations.  The earlier examples are predominantly in settings outside of a birthing situation with only one being in that setting (that part makes me pretty happy.)  So hopefully this will be enough. But I will keep looking for more examples.

The kleid wasn't full enough so I grabbed another red wool to add side gores... the issue... it is very slightly thinner and a slightly deeper (not as bright) red wool.  It will be obvious but not awful (I think, I can't take a picture of it, because the diff. doesn't show.  But I can see it, and it is clear to the eye.)  I hope it doesn't ruin it.  Ah well - let me know when you see me at Crown how bad/not good it is, please. I got to eventually get better at this.  Bleh!

Okay... I think this may be a pull-over kleid and not a lace up... that is tight in the bust.  These are not like others where there is lacing that is clearly shown, puckers to show how tight about the waist the kleid is, and they are looser in the bodice than other similar Housebook designs.  Opins?

(The pictures can be seen here, as I am still trying to move all my old blogs to here from LJ.)